The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.

# ENCYCLOPEDIA
OF
NEEDLEWORK

### BY

## THÉRÈSE DE DILLMONT

ENGLISH EDITION

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

To be had:

of TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all booksellers, and embroidery shops.

Price, English bound with gilt edges:

English edition | Sh. | 3.—
French edition | Fr. | 5.75
German edition | Mk. | 3.—

## Preface.

The absolute want of any comprehensive book on needlework—such an one as contains both verbal and pictorial descriptions of everything included under the name of needlework—has led me to put into the serviceable form of an Encyclopedia, all the knowledge and experience, which years of unceasing study and practice have enabled me to accumulate on the subject, with the hope that diligent female workers of all ages, may be able, by its means to instruct themselves in every branch of plain and fancy needlework.

All the patterns given, even the most insignificant, were worked afresh for the purpose, and thus, not merely faithful representations, but also lucid and intelligible explanations of the same, are secured.

In order that my readers may have something besides the dull theory, the work is enlivened by a number of useful patterns, some new, some derived from the artistic productions of such countries and epochs as have become famous by special excellence in the domain of needlework.

Though, at first sight, the reproduction of many of these patterns may seem to present insuperable difficulties, they will, after a careful study of the text, and exact attention to the directions given, prove easy to carry out.

Many of these interesting designs are drawn from private collections, whose owners, with great kindness, placed their treasures at my disposal, to copy and borrow from at discretion, for which I desire to take the present opportunity, of tendering them my warmest thanks.

The choice of colours and material—a difficult matter to many—my readers will find rendered comparatively easy to them by the notes affixed to the illustrations; and I may point out, that most of the patterns were worked with D.M.C cottons, which enjoy the well-earned reputation of being, the very best of their kind, in the market of the world.

Experience has convinced me that, in many instances, these cottons may with advantage take the place of wool, linen thread, and even silk.

If this work meet with indulgent judges, and prove really useful, I shall find ample reward in that fact for the trouble and difficulties that have unavoidably attended its completion.

## TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PREFACE. | Page
PLAIN SEWING
Stitches
Seams
Gathering
Sewing on cord and flaps | 10
Button-holes | 11
Sewing on buttons | 12
Binding slits | 13
Sewing on piping | 13
Fixing whale-bones—Herring-boning | 14
MENDING | 15
Linen darning | 16
Satin or twill darning | 17
Damask darning | 18
Fine-drawing | 20
Patching | 20
SINGLE AND CUT OPEN-WORK | 23
Hem-stitching | 24
Open-work patterns | 27
Cutting out threads at the corners | 39
Cut open-work | 40
Patterns for cut open-work | 42
NET AND DAMASK STITCHES | 51
Net embroidery | 51
Net patterns | 52
Net darning | 62
Damask stitches | 63
WHITE EMBROIDERY | 76
Stitches | 77
Different kinds of scallops | 79
Eyelet holes | 80
Six ways of making dots | 81
Venetian embroidery | 82
Patterns and alphabets | 83
FLAT STITCH AND GOLD EMBROIDERY | 105
Encroaching satin stitch | 105
Oriental stitch | 106
Plaited stitch and mosaic stitch | 108
Persian stitch | 109
Straight and encroaching flat stitch patterns | 110
Chinese embroidery | 111
Raised embroidery | 113
Turkish embroidery | 113
Implements and materials for gold embroidery | 115
Stitches used in gold embroidery | 119
Patterns for gold embroidery | 120
TAPESTRY AND LINEN EMBROIDERY | 127
Marking out the embroidery ground | 128
Tapestry stitches | 129
Tapestry patterns | 138
Stitches for linen embroidery | 143
Patterns for linen embroidery | 152
KNITTING | 171
Position of the hands | 172
Casting on | 173
Stitches | 178
Stocking knitting | 182
Scalloped edge | 183
Heels | 184
Toes | 189
Mending knitting | 190
Piqué patterns | 195
Patent knitting | 201
Turkish stitch | 201
Knitting patterns | 203
CROCHET WORK | 221
Position of the hands | 223
Stitches | 223
Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet | 238
Crochet with soutache or lacet | 239
Crochet square, hexagon and star | 240
Tunisian crochet | 241
Hairpin crochet | 243
Patterns for hairpin crochet | 245
Crochet lace patterns | 249
Crochet counterpanes | 284
Crochet stars | 300
Crochet collar | 304
Crochet chair-back | 316
TATTING | 325
Position of the hands | 326
Knots | 328
Patterns of scallops and medallions | 331
MACRAMÉ | 343
Materials and implements | 344
Formation of the knots | 345
Macramé shuttles | 360
Macramé patterns | 361
NETTING | 395
Implements and materials | 395
Stitches | 397
Patterns produced in netting | 400
Mounting the netting on the frame | 410
Stars and wheels | 414
Grounds and lace | 423
Embroidery on netting | 434
Netted insertion | 438
IRISH LACE | 439
Materials | 439
Tacking down the braids | 440
Bars of different kinds | 442
Insertion stitches | 445
Lace stitches | 450
Needle-made picots | 467
Irish lace patterns | 468
LACES OF DIFFERENT KINDS | 473
Pillow lace and the implements for its manufacture | 474
«Stitches» or passings | 481
Patterns or grounds | 481
Armenian lace | 503
Laces in knotted stitch | 505
Reticella-lace | 508
Venetian-lace | 510
Brussels-lace | 515
MISCELLANEOUS FANCY WORK | 517
Knotted cord | 518
Balls for trimmings | 519
Tambour work | 521
Smyrna stitch | 523
Malta stitch | 525
Triangular Turkish stitch | 526
Turkish embroidery | 530
Appliqué-work | 531
Morocco embroidery | 535
Spanish embroidery | 536
Different kinds of linen stitches | 540
Pattern for linen stitches | 541
Pattern for Roumanian stitch | 544
Pattern for Piqué embroidery | 546
Embroideries with Soutache | 546
Chinese subject | 551
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS | 553
Tracing and drawing the designs | 553
The preparation of the stuffs and the subdivision of the patterns | 557
To transpose and repeat patterns by means of looking glasses | 559
To alter the proportions of a pattern by dividing the ground into squares | 560
To prepare the paste for appliqué work | 564
To stiffen new needlework | 565
To wash ordinary lace | 565
To wash real lace | 566
To stiffen lace | 566
To iron lace | 566
To pin out lace | 567
To wash coloured cottons and work done with the same | 568
Materials | 569

☞ By the same Author ☜

ALBUM DE BRODERIES

AU POINT DE CROIX.

(Album of cross-stitch embroidery)

BY TH. DE DILLMONT

32 Plates with 278 Designs, and a complete treatise on the embroidery itself.

Quarto; artistic boards, price 1s. 6d.

Fig. 153.

To be had by applying to the Author and Editor TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace, and at all the leading booksellers and Embroidery shops.

PRINTED BY BRUSTLEIN & Co.,
MULHOUSE (Alsace)